Scientific Online Resource System

Journal of Varna Medical College

Chemical Peeling in the Practice of a Medical Cosmetologist

Mariya Stoyanova, Denitsa Dimitrova

Abstract

The aim of the present study is to analyze and systematize the scientific literature devoted to chemical peeling in the context of medical cosmetology practice. The focus is on the types of peels according to depth, the acids used, mechanisms of action, indications, contraindications, and adverse effects. It also addresses the principles of safe application and risk management.

Materials and Methods: A literature search was conducted in the electronic databases Google Scholar and ResearchGate, using the keywords: chemical peel, superficial chemical peel, skin rejuvenation, chemical peel complications, post-peel care, patient selection. The search period covered publications from January 2010 to December 2024.

Results: The review included 34 articles, presenting studies published between 2010 and 2024 related to chemical peeling in medical cosmetology practice. The analysis demonstrated a predominance of review and expert publications, as well as a sustained interest in superficial and medium-depth peels due to their favorable tolerability profile, and the possibility of protocol personalization according to indications and skin phototype.

Conclusion: The results highlight a clear trend toward gentler, serial, and precisely controlled interventions, accompanied by an increasing emphasis on safety, patient selection, and standardized post-procedure care. The findings also indicate a need for more primary clinical studies with comparable outcome measures, particularly across different skin phototypes and in combined therapeutic approaches.


Keywords

chemical peel, superficial chemical peel, skin rejuvenation, chemical peel complications, post-peel care, patient selection

Full Text


References

Anitha B. Prevention of complications in chemical peeling. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2010;3(3):186–188. doi:10.4103/0974-2077.74500.

Brauer JA, Patel U, Hale EK. Laser skin resurfacing, chemical peels, and other cutaneous treatments of the brow and upper lid. Clin Plast Surg. 2013;40(1):91–99. doi:10.1016/j.cps.2012.08.006.

Costa A, Volpe D’A, Basile A, Lucília V, Medeiros S, Abdalla Moisés T, et al. 10% thioglycolic acid gel peels: a safe and efficient option in the treatment of constitutional infraorbital hyperpigmentation. Surg Cosmet Dermatol. 2010;2(1):29–33. Available from: https://docs.bvsalud.org/biblioref/2018/05/884177/2010_29.pdf

De Mendonça MCC, Aarestrup FM, Aarestrup BJV. Clinical protocol for punctuated 88% phenol peels in the treatment of photoaging: a histopathological study of three cases. Dermatol Surg. 2012;38(12):2011–2015. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2012.02543.x.

De Mendonça MCC, Segheto NN, Aarestrup FM, Aarestrup BJV. Punctuated 88% phenol peeling for the treatment of facial photoaging: a clinical and histopathological study. Dermatol Surg. 2018;44(2):241–247. doi:10.1097/DSS.0000000000001357.

Ding Y, Gao L, He L, Jian D, Ju Q, Jiang X, et al. Expert consensus on the clinical application of chemical peels in China (2022). Int J Dermatol Venereol. 2023;7(4):249–256. doi:10.1097/JD9.0000000000000363.

Dréno B, Fischer T, Perosino E, Poli F, Viera M, Rendon M, et al. Expert opinion: efficacy of superficial chemical peels in active acne management—what can we learn from the literature today? Evidence-based recommendations. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011;25(6):695–704. doi:10.1111/j.1468-3083.2010.03852.x.

Faghihi G, Shahingohar A, Siadat AH. Comparison between 1% tretinoin peeling versus 70% glycolic acid peeling in the treatment of female patients with melasma. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(12):1439–1442.

Figueiredo V, Tania Y, Benemond M, Chisaki C, Benemond P, Vania M, et al. Chemical peels: review and practical applications. 2013. Available from: https://docs.bvsalud.org/biblioref/2016/10/2286/2013_58_ingles.pdf

Fischer T, Perosino E, Poli F, Viera M, Dréno B. Chemical peels in aesthetic dermatology: an update 2009. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2010;24(3):281–292. doi:10.1111/j.1468-3083.2009.03409.x.

Gold MH, Hu JY, Biron JA, Yatskayer M, Dahl A, Oresajo C. Tolerability and efficacy of retinoic acid given after full-face peel treatment of photodamaged skin. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2011;4(10):40–48.

Hassan KM, Benedetto AV. Facial skin rejuvenation: ablative laser resurfacing, chemical peels, or photodynamic therapy? Facts and controversies. Clin Dermatol. 2013;31(6):737–740. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2013.05.011.

Hong S-P, Han S-S, Choi S-J, Kim M-S, Won C-H, Lee M-W, et al. Split-face comparative study of 1550 nm fractional photothermolysis and trichloroacetic acid 15% chemical peeling for facial melasma in Asian skin. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2012;14(2):81–86. doi:10.3109/14764172.2012.655287.

Kanechorn Na Ayuthaya P, Niumphradit N, Manosroi A, Nakakes A. Topical 5% tranexamic acid for the treatment of melasma in Asians: a double-blind randomized controlled clinical trial. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2012;14(3):150–154. doi:10.3109/14764172.2012.685478.

Kligman DE, Draelos ZD. Combination superficial peels with salicylic acid and post-peel retinoids. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016;15(4):442–450.

Kumari R, Thappa DM. Comparative study of trichloroacetic acid versus glycolic acid chemical peels in the treatment of melasma. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2010;76(4):447–451. doi:10.4103/0378-6323.66602.

Langsdon PR, Rodwell DW, Velargo PA, Langsdon CH, Guydon A. Latest chemical peel innovations. Facial Plast Surg Clin North Am. 2012;20(2):119–123. doi:10.1016/j.fsc.2012.02.008.

Lee KC, Wambier CG, Soon SL, Sterling JB, Landau M, Rullan P, et al. Basic chemical peeling: superficial and medium-depth peels. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019;81(2):313–324. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.10.079.

Levesque A, Hamzavi I, Seite S, Rougier A, Bissonnette R. Randomized trial comparing a chemical peel containing a lipophilic hydroxy acid derivative of salicylic acid with a salicylic acid peel in subjects with comedonal acne. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2011;10(3):174–178. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2165.2011.00566.x.

Lucília V. 10% thioglycolic acid gel peels: a safe and efficient option in the treatment of constitutional infraorbital hyperpigmentation. 2010. Available from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/284179301_10_thioglycolic_acid_gel_peels_a_safe_and_efficient_option_in_the_treatment_of_constitutional_infraorbital_hyperpigmentation

National Clearinghouse of Plastic Surgery. 2016 statistics report. 2017. Available from: https://d2wirczt3b6wjm.cloudfront.net/News/Statistics/2016/2016-plastic-surgery-statistics-report.pdf

Nikalji N, Patil S, Sakhiya J, Godse K, Nadkarni N. Complications of medium depth and deep chemical peels. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2012;5(4):254–258. doi:10.4103/0974-2077.104913.

Oremović L, Bolanca Z, Situm M. Chemical peelings—when and why? Acta Clin Croat. 2010;49(4):545–548.

Otike-Odibi BI, Altraide DD. Chemical peeling: indications, side effects and outcome among patients at a private clinic in Port Harcourt. Curr J Appl Sci Technol. 2021;40(6):96–102. doi:10.9734/CJAST/2021/v40i631350.

Perić S, Bubanj M, Bubanj S, Jančić S. Side effects assessment in glycolic acid peelings in patients with acne type I. Bosn J Basic Med Sci. 2011;11(1):52–55. doi:10.17305/bjbms.2011.2624.

Prestes PS, Oliveira MMM, Leonardi GR. Randomized clinical efficacy of superficial peeling with 85% lactic acid versus 70% glycolic acid. An Bras Dermatol. 2013;88(6):900–905. doi:10.1590/abd1806-4841.20131888.

Puri N. A study on fractional erbium glass laser therapy versus chemical peeling for the treatment of melasma in female patients. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2013;6(3):148–152. doi:10.4103/0974-2077.118410.

Rendon MI, Berson DS, Cohen JL, Roberts WE, Starker I, Wang B. Evidence and considerations in the application of chemical peels in skin disorders and aesthetic resurfacing. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010;3(7):32–43.

Rendon MI, Cohen JL, Berson DS, Roberts WE, Starker I, Wang B. Clinical role and application of superficial chemical peels in today’s practice. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;8(9):803–811.

Sarkar R, Bansal S, Garg VK. Chemical peels for melasma in dark-skinned patients. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2012;5(4):247–253. doi:10.4103/0974-2077.104912.

Sarkar R, Sharad J, Vedamurthy M. Chemical peels and fillers—incorporating scientific evidence in clinical practice. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2012;5(4):227–233. doi:10.4103/0974-2077.104909.

Soleymani T, Lanoue J, Rahman Z. A practical approach to chemical peels: a review of fundamentals and step-by-step algorithmic protocol for treatment. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2018;11(8):21–28.

Vavouli C, Katsambas A, Gregoriou S, Teodor A, Salavastru C, Alexandru A, et al. Chemical peeling with trichloroacetic acid and lactic acid for infraorbital dark circles. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2013;12(3):204–209. doi:10.1111/jocd.12044.

Wójcik A, Kubiak M, Rotsztejn H. Influence of azelaic and mandelic acid peels on sebum secretion in ageing women. Adv Dermatol Allergol. 2013;30(3):140–145. doi:10.5114/pdia.2013.35614.




DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.14748/jmk.v8i1.10604

Refbacks

Font Size


|