Scientific Online Resource System

Journal of Varna Medical College

Peptides in dermatocosmetics

Ilko Backardzhiev, Dona Filcheva

Abstract

Over the last two decades, many substances have been developed and new knowledge and opportunities have been discovered to maintain skin health and balance. The spectrum of biologically active peptides as a non-invasive and non-toxic alternative to botulinum toxin in the field of cosmetics is constantly growing. Designed specifically for inclusion in dermatocosmetic products, peptides with botulinum-like action have shown to be a new opportunity in the fight against skin aging. This review examines the types, classification, mechanism of action, and effective data, which are demonstrated through clinical trials for the use of these substances.


Keywords

peptides, botulinum toxin, dermatocosmetics

Full Text


References

Lima, T., and Pedriali Moraes, C. A. (2018). Bioactive peptides: applications and

relevance for cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics 5:21. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics5010021

Krishnan, G., Roberts, M. S., Grice, J., Anissimov, Y. G., Moghimi, H. R.,

and Benson, H. A. E. (2014). Iontophoretic skin permeation of peptides:

an investigation into the influence of molecular properties, iontophoretic

conditions and formulation parameters. Drug Deliv. Transl. Res. 4, 222–232.

doi: 10.1007/s13346-013-0181-8

Tadini, K. A., Mercurio, D. G., and Campos, P. M. B. G. M. (2015).

Acetyl hexapeptide-3 in a cosmetic formulation acts on skin

mechanical properties - clinical study. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci. 51, 901–909.

doi: 10.1590/S1984-82502015000400016

Raikou, V., Varvaresou, A., Panderi, I., and Papageorgiou, E. (2017). The efficacy

study of the combination of tripeptide-10-citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-3.

A prospective, randomized controlled study. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 16, 271–278.

doi: 10.1111/jocd.12314

Lim, S. H., Tiew, W. J., Zhang, J., Ho, P. C., Kachouie, N. N., and Kang, L.

(2020). Geometrical optimisation of a personalised microneedle eye patch for

transdermal delivery of anti-wrinkle small peptide. Biofabrication 12:035003.

doi: 10.1088/1758-5090/ab6d37

Han, F., Luo, D., Qu, W., Chen, D., Hong, Y., Sheng, J., et al. (2020).

Nanoliposomes codelivering bioactive peptides produce enhanced antiaging effect in human skin. J. Drug Deliv. Sci. Technol. 57:101693.

doi: 10.1016/j.jddst.2020.101693

Lipotec s.a. (2020). SNAP-8. Available online at: https://www.lipotec.com/en/

products/snap-8-trade-peptide/ (accessed June 15, 2020).

Arul, V., Gopinath, D., Gomathi, K., and Jayakumar, R. (2005). Biotinylated

GHK peptide incorporated collagenous matrix: a novel biomaterial for dermal

wound healing in rats. J. Biomed. Mater. Res. B Appl. Biomater. 3B, 383–391.

doi: 10.1002/jbm.b.30246

Jeong, S., Yoon, S., Kim, S., Jung, J., Kor, M., Shin, K., et al. (2019). Anti-wrinkle

benefits of peptides complex stimulating skin basement membrane proteins

expression. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 21:73. doi: 10.3390/ijms21010073

Hur, G., Han, S., Ryu, A.-R., Eom, Y., Kim, J., and Lee, M. (2020). Effect of

oligoarginine conjugation on the antiwrinkle activity and transdermal delivery

of GHK peptide. J. Peptide Sci. 26:e3234. doi: 10.1002/psc.3234

Lipotec s.a. (2005). Leuphasyl. Available online at: http://docplayer.net/

-Leuphasyl-a-new-pentapeptide-for-expression-wrinkles-codepd080-date-june-2005-revision-1-a-gmp-peptide-for-cosmetic-applications.

html (accessed June 08, 2020).

Hussain, M., and Goldberg, D. J. (2007). Topical manganese peptide in

the treatment of photodamaged skin. J. Cosmet. Laser Ther. 9, 232–236.

doi: 10.1080/14764170701704668

Biopeptide EL™. Available online: http://www.webareal.com.ua/fotky27371/BIOPEPTIDE_EL_.pdf

(accessed on 22 April 2017).

Kaczvinsky, J.R.; Griffiths, C.E.; Schnicker, M.S.; Li, J. Efficacy of anti-aging products for periorbital wrinkles as measured by 3-D imaging. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2009, 8, 228–233.

Fournial, A.; Mondon, P. New Cosmetic or Dermopharmaceutical Topical Use of a Mixture of a Ghk, Tripeptide and Gqpr Tetrapeptide. Available online: www.google.com/patents/WO2012164488A2?cl=en, (accessed on 22 April 2017)

Murphy-Ullrich, J.E.; Poczatek, M. Activation of latent TGF-beta by thrombospondin-1: Mechanisms and physiology. Cytokine Growth Factor Rev. 2000, 11, 59–69.

Cauchard, J., Berton, A., Godeau, G., Hornebeck, W., and Bellon, G. (2004).

Activation of latent transforming growth factor beta 1 and inhibition of matrix

metalloprotease activity by a thrombospondin-like tripeptide linked to elaidic

acid. Biochem. Pharmacol. 67, 2013–2022. doi: 10.1016/j.bcp.2004.01.028

Sklirou, A. D., Ralli, M., Dominguez, M., Papassideri, I., Skaltsounis, A.,

and Trougakos, I. P. (2015). Hexapeptide-11 is a novel modulator of the

proteostasis network in human diploid fibroblasts. Redox Biol. 5, 205–215.

doi: 10.1016/j.redox.2015.04.010

. Zhmak, M.N.; Utkin, Y.N.; Andreeva, T.V.; Kudryavtsev, D.S.; Kryudova, E.V.; Tsetlin, V.I.; Shelukhina, I.V.E., Peptide Inhibitors of Nicotinic Acetylcholine Receptor. US Patent US 20,150,361,137 A1, 17 December 2015.

Gorouhi F. , Maibach H. I Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2009, 31, 327–345




DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.14748/jmk.v4i1.8186

Refbacks

Font Size


|